Tokyo designer Soshi Otsuki made a significant mark on the international fashion scene with his debut menswear collection for Fall 2026, showcased at Pitti Uomo in Florence on September 13, 2023. Fresh off winning the prestigious LVMH Prize, Otsuki presented a collection that captivated attendees with its innovative blend of traditional Japanese aesthetics and modern tailoring.
Arriving in Florence from Milan, where he had conducted model castings, Otsuki appeared exhausted yet elated after his first show outside Japan. “It seems like it was well received, so I’m relieved,” he stated while enjoying a cigarette backstage. The atmosphere in the historic refettorio of the Santa Maria Novella was charged with anticipation, reflecting the high expectations following his recent accolades.
Otsuki’s collection drew inspiration from Japan’s bubble era salarymen, yet he aimed to carve out a distinct identity as a designer. “I’ve been asked about Armani so much in interviews over the past few months that I’ve become a little neurotic about it,” he remarked, acknowledging the comparisons to the iconic designer. To assert his individuality, he collaborated with stylist Alister Mackie, incorporating “a touch of ’80s flair that still felt modern.”
The LVMH Prize has provided Otsuki with invaluable resources, allowing him to broaden his creative network. “I was able to incorporate the opinions of people who aren’t accustomed to Japanese salaryman culture,” he explained. This collaboration opened the door for fresh ideas and interpretations within his work.
The collection shone in its attention to detail and innovative fabrications. Key pieces featured oversized peak lapels, cropped ribbed cardigans, and trousers with extensive belt loops that draped elegantly. A standout ensemble included a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit that appeared as a button-up shirt paired with trousers. Otsuki introduced a new gray hue by yarn-dyeing suiting fabrics in black and beige, adding a contemporary twist to his signature “sewer-rat power suits.”
Bold colors and textures defined the collection, with orange cable knit sweaters, rich green and brown corduroy, toffee leather suits, and smooth pink shirts contributing to its vibrant character. Otsuki aimed to create a new chapter in tailoring that transcended Japanese and Italian influences, presenting something entirely fresh.
Among the notable collaborations were a sashiko suit and jeans created in partnership with Proleta Re Art, a Japanese brand renowned for its hand-stitched fabrics reimagined into streetwear. Additional collaborations included a quarter-zip design with Asics, cigarette holder rings by artist Kota Okuda, and shirts crafted with Spanish shirtmaker Camisas Monolo. These partnerships reflect Otsuki’s strategic approach to expand his brand’s footprint and solidify his legacy in the fashion industry.
The audience’s response to the collection was overwhelmingly positive. As the show concluded, attendees flocked to admire Otsuki’s work, with one enthusiastic spectator exclaiming, “Beyond! It was beyond!” Otsuki, embodying both humility and confidence, accepted the accolades with a characteristic smile, signaling the beginning of an exciting journey for this emerging talent.
As Soshi Otsuki continues to navigate the international fashion landscape, his Fall 2026 collection illustrates his commitment to innovation and individuality, promising to leave a lasting impact on menswear.
