The opening of Shein’s first brick-and-mortar store in Paris has drawn significant attention, but not without controversy. Long lines formed outside the upscale BHV department store on Rue de Rivoli as shoppers eagerly awaited entry. On December 6, 2023, as the store welcomed its first customers, the event was overshadowed by protests and backlash against the Chinese fast-fashion giant.
Inside the store, Frédéric Merlin, owner of BHV, greeted the initial wave of customers with enthusiasm. However, the atmosphere soon turned tense as demonstrators arrived with signs proclaiming messages like “Protect the children. Not Shein.” The protests primarily focused on Shein’s history of alleged unethical practices, including accusations of child labor and unsafe working conditions. Critics have also condemned the brand for contributing to environmental degradation through its model of ultra-cheap, disposable fashion.
Despite these challenges, BHV remains committed to its partnership with Shein. Merlin reported that over 50,000 people visited the store on opening day, a figure that reflects both interest in the brand and the controversy surrounding it. On that day, Shein faced additional scrutiny as the French government announced it would continue to monitor the company for any pornographic or illegal items listed on its site.
Consumer opinions varied amid the protests. Many shoppers cited Shein’s low prices as their primary motivation for shopping there. One customer defended her choice, stating, “Nobody here in the queue condones pedophiles, okay?” This sentiment highlights the complex interplay between consumer behavior and ethical considerations in the fast-fashion industry.
The backlash has prompted several French brands to sever ties with BHV in response to its collaboration with Shein. Notably, Agnès B., a well-respected French womenswear label, announced it would cease its partnership with BHV after its current contract expires in January 2024. Founder Agnès Troublé expressed her strong disapproval of fast fashion, calling it “worse than anything.”
Other brands, including Skin & Out and A.P.C., have also removed their products from the department store. Skin & Out’s co-founder, Amélie Desazars Laparra, even took the step of personally purchasing her brand’s products back from the store to ensure they were no longer associated with Shein.
In light of these developments, BHV plans to expand its relationship with Shein by introducing shop-in-shop concepts in five Galeries Lafayette locations across France. However, Galeries Lafayette has announced the cancellation of its partnership with BHV’s parent company due to the association with Shein. This decision will lead to the rebranding of several department stores in cities such as Angers, Dijon, and Grenoble, where Shein shops were scheduled to open in early December.
As the situation evolves, BHV has decided to postpone the opening of the Shein shops in Galeries Lafayette. A spokesperson stated that the goal is to reassess the range of products offered and to enhance customer experience before proceeding.
The tension surrounding Shein’s Paris debut underscores a growing awareness among consumers and retailers about the implications of fast fashion. As BHV navigates this contentious landscape, it remains to be seen how public sentiment will shape the future of its partnership with Shein.
